High Gravity Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Conical Fermenter │ 7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment

SKU: 5179
Weight: 11 lbs
The FastFerment System is a one-stage fermenter, which allows brewers & winemakers to do primary & secondary fermentation in the same unit. FastFerment eliminates racking & transferring between buckets & carboys. With less equipment, clean up is easy.
Specials: Conical Sale
Capacity: 7 Gallons
Manufacturer: FastBrewing
Price: $99.99
Conical Fermenter │  7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │ 7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │  7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │ 7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │  7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │ 7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │  7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
Conical Fermenter │ 7.9 Gallons │ FastFerment
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Eliminate Racking & Transferring by doing Primary & Secondary Fermentation in one Vessel.

Easy & Efficient

The FastFerment System is a one-stage fermenter, which allows brewers & winemakers to do primary & secondary fermentation in the same unit. FastFerment eliminates racking & transferring between buckets & carboys. With less equipment, clean up is easy.


FastFerment is a professional system for the average Homebrewer & Winemaker. The conical design limits exposure to oxygen & allows for yeast harvesting. The end result is consistent high quality batches of beer & wine.

Benefits Over Traditional Conicals

The downfall of other conical fermenters is that you have to ferment the product with the valve closed and then the sediment accumulates above the valve. When the fermentation is complete you have to open the valve and flush the sediment out the bottom. This results in two main issues:
  1. You need to time the flushing of the sediment perfectly to ensure minimal loss of product.
  2. As the sediment is flushed out, there will always be yeast and the sediment hazes that float up into the product remaining in the unit.

Kit Contents

  1. One 7.9 US Gallon / 30 Liter Conical Fermenter
  2. 6" (15cm) Screw Top, Grommet & Airlock
  3. Bottom Collection Ball For Harvesting Yeast
  4. 1" Union Teflon Valve and fittings
  5. Wall Mounts (2), Mounting Bolts & Anchors (4)
  6. 1/2" (1.25cm) PVC Hose (2' /60cm) & Hose Clamp
  7. Permanent Thermowell for Temperature Monitoring
  8. Instructions

  1. Made with HDPE: Food Grade
  2. Heights

    On wall mounts from bottom of collection ball:

    • To top of Airlock: 35.5", 90cm
    • To top of Lid: 32", 81cm

    In the Stand:

    • To top of Airlock: 37", 94cm
    • To top of Lid: 33.5", 85cm
  3. Widths
    • With Wall Mounting Bolts: 14.75", 37.5cm
    • Without Wall Mounting Bolts: 14.25", 36cm
  4. 7.9 US Gallons/ 30 Litres
  5. 1" (2.5cm) Teflon Seated Union Valve
  6. 6" (15cm) Removable Screw Top Lid

Where are my wall brackets?

Wall brackets are located in the bottom of the box of your FastFerment under the cardboard insert. They pack them there to protect the conical from scratches.

Does it need to be covered or can it be left under fluorescent lighting?

The vessel is made from White HDPE Plastic. It keeps 90% of all light out but in order to keep 100% of the light out, the vessel needs to be covered in a non-transparent sheet/cover. The 90% compared to the 100% will not result in much better quality product; only slightly better. The system works without covering it.

What are the dimensions?

  1. Height

    On wall mounts from bottom of collection ball:

    • To top of Airlock: 35.5", 90cm
    • To top of Lid: 32", 81cm

    In the Stand:

    • To top of Airlock: 37", 94cm
    • To top of Lid: 33.5", 85cm
  2. Widths
    • With Wall Mounting Bolts: 14.75", 37.5cm
    • Without Wall Mounting Bolts: 14.25", 36cm


Bottom collection ball volume?

700mL or 23.7oz

Is the fluid volume on the side calculated with or without the valve open to the collection ball?

It is calculated with everything CLOSED

Can you provide me with more information about the Thermowell and Thermometer?

The outside thread diameter is 1/2" NPT.

The Interior width where the thermometer is inserted is 9mm wide and 3" deep.

It is not threaded on the inside.

Do you need to dump and clean the collection ball out multiple times?

This is can be pretty standard depending on what you are brewing and how heaving everything is. Some really heavy batches might need the ball to be purged 2, 3, or sometimes 4 times to get rid of sediment and trub. Make sure you have let the primary fermentation happen completely (7-12 days) before starting to purge the sediment and trub. It is best to let it sit overnight before you dump and clean the collection ball until all the sediment, trub, and yeast are cleared from the vessel. It takes time for everything to properly settle in the collection ball so letting it sit overnight is recommended.

When you reattach the collection ball and open the valve, will air be pulled back into the unit through the airlock?

No. When you are reattach the collection ball the air "O2” that is in the collection ball will rise up through the liquid while the liquid fills the collection ball. The air in the collection ball trades places with the liquid in the conical. There will be no disturbance in the airlock. If you really want to ensure absolutely no air touches what you are fermenting try these idea's

  1. Fill the collection ball with beer, wine, or whatever you are fermenting and then reattach
  2. Fill the collection ball with distilled water and then reattach
  3. Fill the collection ball with CO2 and then reattach

We do #1 in our office with 8 FastFerments doing Beer, Wine and Cider and it works really nice for us.

What will happen with the air "O2” when you reattach the collection ball?

The air will quickly pass through the beer or wine but will not affect the taste in the long run.

When the valve is opened 700ml of O2 rushes through the liquid as it rises. When it reaches the top of the liquid it hits the head space that is filled with CO2. With O2 being lighter than CO2, the O2 now also rises through the CO2 and rests in the top of the head space. As fermentation continues it pushes the O2 through the airlock. The only time the O2 is in contact with the liquid is for 1.5 second while it passes through. The layer of C02 protects the wart/juice from being in contact with the O2 until it is all pushed out.

The system is a little unconventional and if you are trying to follow every word in a beer or wine making book it will be hard to do with FastFerment. But it will make extremely good beer, wine, ciders, and meads.

Other idea’s/suggestions or thoughts on reattaching the collection ball?

Many forums online talk about purging the collection ball with either CO2 or distilled water before reattaching it. We think both of these choices are good. Sometime the CO2 is not readily available so distilled water is best. Simply filled the collection ball up with either of these when reattaching it. You might need to make adjustments to your batch size depending on how accurate you are keeping things. At our office we can not detect a taste difference.

Clogging Issues

Depending on what you are brewing in your FastFerment you might experience a clogged valve. This should only happen with very heavy brews that drop a lot of trub/sediment. Or if you put ingredients in that are larger than .75” in the diameter. Always use a Muslin Bag to add ingredients that are over .75” in diameter or that could expand to over .75” in diameter when placed in liquid. If you do experience a clog these two methods will easily help unclog your unit and have you back brewing in no time:

  1. The first way to deal with a clogged valve is to: Close the valve and unattached the collection ball. Dump and clean the Collection Ball out and reattach it. When you open the valve back up the air bubble that shoots up should dislodge the clog. To have the best results when doing this we suggest you find something fairly soft such as the palm of your hand or rubber spatula (do not use a hard object like a hammer) and knock the parts of the conical where the clog is at the same time the air bubble is passing through. Near the bottom of the conical or on the valve is best but be gentle to ensure you do not damage your unit. Once the clog is dislodged let sit overnight before you dump and clean the collection ball out. It takes time for everything to properly settle in the collection ball. If this does not work use #2.
  2. Stick something down into the clog like a plastic rod to push the clog through. Be careful to ensure you do not scratch the inside of the conical or valve if having to perform this.

Where are the quick disconnects?

After doing a lot of research into the cam lock fitting release system we decided the Union release system would be better for a number of reasons.

  1. Previous V Vessel customers said that the cam lock fittings and seals wear out over time. The Union design will hold up better with less seals and working parts to wear out.
  2. The cam lock system adds about 2" of height to the system. One of the biggest requests we have is to make it as compact as possible so the Union was the obvious choice.
  3. The cam lock system requires additional space left under the unit to un-attach and re-attach it. This adds 2" in total height plus another 1.5" of access room need to un-attach and re-attach it. This means a total of 3.5" extra height is needed to accommodate the cam lock system.
  4. The cost of the cam locks and all the components needed to make the cam locks work would increase the cost much more than any benefit.
  5. We also took into consideration the time difference in using the camlocks compared to the union system. Overall the Union system might take 2-5 second longer to attach and reattach than the camlocks which we felt was fairly even overall.

I was wondering if there is a way to clean behind the ball on the Union Valve? It appears that is would require some type of spanner wrench, but I wanted to confirm before I disassembled the valve.

We do not suggest and cannot warranty valves that are taken apart. If you soak the valve in sanitizer overnight and open and close the valve during the soaking process it will clean the valve. This method has proven to work well with the original valves on the V Vessel units (predecessor to FastFerment); and some of these valves have been in service for 10+ years. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE THE VALVE.


The valves can be disassembled very easily for cleaning. Simply pull off the red handle portion of the valve. Use the fittings on the top of the handle to undo the bottom portion of the Union Valve to open the inside up. Disassemble, clean and reassemble the valve as you see needed. But we do not think this is necessary due to the outstanding results of long term testing of NOT disassembling the valves for cleaning.

My FastFerment is leaking from the Thermowell or Collection Ball or Valve. What should I do?

The first thing to do is to ensure you have an adequate amount of Teak Tape on each threaded end. The Thermowell thread requires Teak Tape, the bottom thread on the large vessel requires Teak Tape and the thread on the collection ball requires Teak Tape. When putting on Teak Tape make sure to wrap the teak tape in a clockwise direction with 2-5 layers. Wrap the threads in 3-5 layers of teak tape and screw the adjoining parts together.

What temperatures can my FastFerment handle?

80 degrees celsius or 176 F

Should I follow the instructions on the Beer or Wine kit?

Yes - FastFerment is a vessel for making beer/wine/cider/mead so please always follow the directions for your beer/wine/cider/mead kit.

How do you stir the ingredients in FastFerment? What do you recommend using?

The best way to stir FastFerment is to use a long plastic rod or spoon that has been sanitized. Do not use metal as it will scrap the inside walls of the FastFerment. Always be gentle with the inside of your FastFerment.

How does the yeast harvesting work?

*These are just our suggestions. Not the Bible of yeast harvesting, please consult multiple sources*

  1. Keep valve closed and do not attach collection ball (do not pitch yeast immediately after adding wort/juice to FastFerment)
  2. Wait overnight or at least 5 hours
  3. Trub should have settled at the bottom of FastFerment
  4. Open ball valve and let trub fall out and discard it. Trub will be characterized by dark colour.
  5. Close ball valve once wort/juice starts to come out.
  6. Attach collection ball, open valve and pitch yeast.
  7. Wait 5-10 days for primary fermentation to be over. Collection ball should be filled with flocculated and dormant yeast ready to harvest.
  8. Close ball valve and disconnect collection ball.
  9. Pour contents of collection ball into a sanitized mason jar (or multiple jars depending on size).
  10. If there is trub at the bottom of collection ball do not add it to mason jar.
  11. Tightly seal mason jar closed and store in fridge as close to 32 F (0 C) as possible.
  12. Sanitize collection ball and reattach it to FastFerment.
  13. **optional: purge collection ball with C02 to minimize oxygen comes in contact with beer or wine.
  14. Open ball valve to start secondary fermentation.
  15. Small amount of yeast and trub will continue to collect in collection ball but this can all be discarded at the end of complete fermentation.

Using Harvested Yeast

  1. Use yeast within 2-3 weeks of harvesting

What type of yeast to harvest/do’s or don’ts/extra tips

  1. Try using reharvested yeast with a similar beer style to make consistent batches. Yeast will often contain a little flavour from previous batch.
  2. Always harvest from a low gravity and low hopped beer.
  3. Use pitching rate calculator for calculating viability of stored yeast

Have you thought about a warming/cooling blanket?

Yes - We just launched our Temperature Control Jacket presale! This jacket allows brewers and winemakers to control the temperature of FastFerment while it is on the wall mount or in the stand.

  1. The temperature control jacket will be available at a PRESALE rate of $55.00 USD shipped in Contiguous USA and Canada only.

How Does the Temperature Control Jacket Work?

    1. The TCJ works great up to a 30 degree F drop below room


    2. It is easy to control the desired temperature by using frozen 2-liter bottles as follows:
    - One frozen 1-liter bottle will result in a 2.5 degree F drop below room temperature.
    - One frozen 2-liter bottle will result in a 5 degree F drop over below temperature.
    - Two frozen 2-liter bottles will result in a 10 degree F drop below room temperature.
    - Three frozen 2-liter bottles will result in a 15 degree F drop below room temperature.
    - This method is scalable all the way up to around a 30 degree F drop below room temperature.

    3. A frozen 2-liter bottle typically does not thaw completely in 24 hours so it is easy to maintain temperature.

    4. The following graph highlights a lager fermented at 53 degrees F in a 68 degree F room.

    For this test, 3 frozen 2-liter bottles were cycled every 24-36 hours.

Lager Temperatures Example

    Temp. Example 1:

    If your target temp is 70° and your ambient is 74.8°. Then 4 bottles should get you there within 37 hours.

    If your target temp is 70° and your ambient is 77.3°. Then 8 bottles should get you there within 49 hours.

    Temp. Example 2:

    If your target temp is 75° and your ambient is 79.8°. Then 4 bottles should get you there within 37 hours.

    If your target temp is 75° and your ambient is 82.3°. Then 8 bottles should get you there within 49 hours.

Have you thought of adding something to take samples/test the gravity?

Yes - We are in the design stages of offering a Spigot system to allow brewers to take samples of their brew/wine without having to open the FastFerment top. If you have product suggestions for this, please email them

What about the extra head space when aging wine for 4-8 weeks?

When using FastFerment no transferring from buckets to carboys is needed so all the headspace air is pushed out during primary fermentation and it is still just Co2 in the headspace during this aging. When using buckets or carboys when you transfer to the carboy the headspace is air because it is a new container and thus reducing headspace is important to avoid oxidizing your wine.

Do you have suggestion for helping control the flow when bottling?

When bottling it is best to use a combination of the valve and hose clamp to control the flow rate. The conical mean there is much more pressure/force/volume than tradition racking and transferring via syphoning. We suggest when ready to bottle only turn the valve on ⅛ - ¼ of the way open to help ease pressure off the hose clamp.

What is the dimensions of the O-Ring?

The O-ring has an outside diameter of 35mm and the thickness of the ring is 3.5mm

Do you have any suggestions for the clarifying step of doing wine?

We find that some of the higher quality kits contain cleaning agents that sometimes turn into a thicker sludge and can sometimes block the valve. Not always but sometime depending on what kit it is. We suggest two things.

  1. On the higher quality kits, try adding only 1/2 of the chemicals to clear it. The conical design does a superior job at filtering everything down into the collection ball that only using a portion of the clearing agents will do a great job and prevent the valve from becoming blocked. Others are having good results with this.
  2. Instead of using the clearing chemicals that come with the higher quality kits we suggest switching them out and using.. #5 Isinglass - Ichtyocolle (Fining Agent/Clarifiant) See pic below. Thousands of test results over many years prove this to be a great alternative.

How can I heat my FastFerment?

We will be coming out with a temperature control jacket for FastFerment by the end of the summer 2015. In the meantime, we have had some brewers putting a heating pad and blanket or cover around FastFerment to increase the temperature around the unit. The only thing we caution is to not create any hot spots so using a low temperature setting works best.

Do you have any suggestions for Lagering?

We have found there a couple yeast strains that work really well for doing Lagers in FastFerment. You do not necessarily need to have traditional low temperatures for Lagering. Some homebrewers have brewed great Lagers at the mid 60’s temperature range in FastFerment. They have done this by using these yeasts.

Wyeast Laboratories: 2124 Bohemian Lager

Fermentis - SAFLAGER S-23

What do I do if my Union Valve is stuck together?

Sounds like the Union Valve got over tightened when installing the collection ball. We had this on a couple of the 8 FastFerments we use at the office when we first started. If you look at the bottom of the valve when unscrewed there is a (should be) a black oring. This is the part that seals the valve and not forcefully cranking it tight.

If the valve is over tightened during fermentation the sugars will seal it really tight. We suggest getting two pairs of pipe wrenches and to unscrew it.
I know I have read on forums that some people have good results putting keg lube on the grey union threads before attaching the ball. That way it comes of real easy later on.

Is it possible to also do a 3 gallon kit with the FastFerment, or is there too much headspace?

There is too much headspace to do a 3 gallon kit. Go up to 5 gallons, more brew/wine is never bad ;)

  • How is the FastFerment Union Valve positioned on the Conical Vessel?

    The valve is placed on the conical with the union fitting side on the bottom. It screws into the conical vessel and the union fitting is on the bottom to screw onto either the collection ball or the filling hose attachment (see picture below to show the valve positions).

    How do I remove the Collection Ball?

    When you are removing the collection ball, you should unscrew the grey union fitting collar and not the collection ball itself. When you do this, you do not need any extra vertical room to remove it as it slides directly out. Make sure to have a plate underneath the collection ball to catch any excess liquid.

    Have you thought about a Sampling Port?

    Yes - We are in the design stages of creating a sampling port to allow brewers to take samples of their brew easily.


    1. The sampling port is scheduled to be available in late fall.
    2. We hope to retail this accessory between $20-$25 USD.
    3. The sampling port will be able to be built into existing FastFerment conical vessels.


    How Do You Degas?

    For wine, degas vigorously for 2-5 minutes. You can repeat this step 2-4 times a day over the next 2 days but doing it once really well is good enough. Our recommendation with degassing is to use an agitation wand on a drill for a minute or a plastic stir spoon. With a five gallon batch, there's very little degassing necessary because of the small volume. A degassing vaccum is not needed, however, if that is your preferred method, we have not measured the max pressure that the conical body can handle. We assume a lot less than a glass bucket and carboy.

  • I don't use the Thermowell as I use stick-on thermometers. How can I plug up the Thermowell hole?

    You could try a 1/2" NPT threaded bolt to fill the hole as long as the material used to make the bolt is safe to be in contact with beer, wine...etc. You can also just leave the Thermowell in the Conical Vessel even though you may not use it since it is the perfect fit and can be Teflon Taped for a good seal.


    Can I use fruit when brewing/winemaking in my FastFerment?

    Many people use fruit in the FastFerment. Basically, keeping the pieces of fruit small (under 1" squared), so they can fall down into the collection ball without clogging is key. Then, ensuring that the collection ball is emptied mulitple times to avoid back up is important. Everybody uses a different strategy so some of it might be trial and error depending on what fruit you are using but our main tip would be to keep the pieces of fruit small.


    How Can I take the Union Valve apart to Clean it?

    The following will allow you to properly disassemble the Union Valve. DISCLAIMER: Once you take apart the Union Valve, the warranty on the valve is void.


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