Heating Element │ HotPod Electric Enclosure

SKU: HotPod-EWL3
Weight: 0 lbs 7 ozs
Narrow Your Search: Weldless Accessories
Price: $27.99
Heating Element │ HotPod Electric Enclosure
Heating Element │ HotPod Electric Enclosure
Electric Kettle Element Install Enclosure, Bare Enclosure for Weldless Installs with 1" NPSL Grooved Locknut and silicone oring.

This version of Brewhardware's Hot Pod enclosure system is used to protect the electrical terminals and provide a ground location for electric heating elements that will install with a 1" lock-nut and silicone o-ring. Includes a lock-nut and o-ring.

Installing a heating element in this method is semi-permanent since it is not advisable to remove the element frequently as the gasket will need replacement often. You will have to clean your vessels with the element remaining in place (with the electrical cord still attached). The element enclosure is not fully waterproof so it is not recommend to submerge the exterior of your pot or fully spray it down.

General info for all electrical enclosures:
The matter of enclosing the electrical connection of your heating element has long been the shortcoming of many Do-It-Yourself element installs. Many solutions relied on "potting" the exposed connections with silicone or epoxy which was a bit more permanent than practical. In addition to shielding the connections, another challenge is providing an earth ground point on the metal pieces. Brewhardware's design solves both of these problems.

What's included with all enclosure options:
Screw-together canister with ground screw and cord grip. The cord grip can accommodate portable "SJ" cord ranging from 14/3 up to 10/3.

Electrical Connection Parts: One pair of crimp-on ring terminals to connect your cord (up to 10 gauge wire) to the element, and a single ring terminal to attach an earth ground to the canister, a couple pieces of shrink wrap tubing (shrink it over your crimp terminals with a lighter or heat gun).

Note: The weldless heating element kit does not include the heating element, which is sold separately.

For proper installation, your vessel must be drilled or punched to a 1.25” (1-1/4”) with no sharp edges inside.

1.    Remove any gaskets from your heating element and wrap the threads with 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape.

2.    Unscrew the hot pod drilled lid off of the main body and hold the flat side of the lid to the drilled hole in your vessel. Insert the heating element through the holes so the element is sticking into the vessel and the metal hex bushing of the element is in direct contact with the inside of the enclosure lid.

3.    Roll the 1” red silicone o-ring (Brewhardware recommends a light coating of Vaseline or keg lube be applied to the o-ring in advance) over the element threads and thread the 1” NPS lock-nut onto the element with the machined groove facing towards the o-ring. Snug the lock-nut up by hand.

4.    Rotate the lock-nut until one of its points is facing up and hold it there while tightening the element by its hex flange on the outside of the vessel. Note that a low install of a ripple style element may require tightening the lock-nut while the element remains still. In this case, work slowly as to not tear the o-ring (lube is absolutely required). As you tighten, the o-ring should be captured behind the lock-nut within the machined groove. If it bulges out, you may have the lock-nut backwards.

5.    NOW IT IS TIME TO LEAK TEST BY FILLING YOUR VESSEL WITH WATER. If this area drips water, the first remedy is to tighten the element hex another 1/8th turn. If the leak does not stop, the next remedy is to start over, removing the Teflon tape and rewrapping with extra Teflon tape. The thread tape is to stop liquid from going between the element bushing and the lock-nut. Do not continue without verifying that the connection holds water with absolutely no drips. Do not try to solve leaks with silicone sealant or epoxy.

6.    Following a successful leak test, gather the remaining parts out of the hardware baggie. It includes three silver colored crimp on ring terminals. The two with the larger ring are for connection to the element terminals. The smaller hole terminal is for the ground connection on the inside of the hot pod enclosure. The appropriate wire types are those meant for portable connections such as SJOW or similar having an round profile with outside jacket. You will strip some of the outer jacket and internal packing so that approximately 3” of internal insulated conductors are sticking out (Black, White, and Green). Strip approximately 3/8” of the insulation off those conductors. Slide the two included blue or black heat shrink tube segments over the white and black wires, then crimp the larger ring terminals onto each of those wires. Crimp the smaller ring terminal onto the green wire. Use of a high quality crimping tool is critical. Test the crimp by trying to pull the ring terminal off the wire. It should not pull out. Loose connections can create short circuits and general havoc. Slide the heat shrink down over the crimps leaving only the ring area exposed, and shrink them over a candle flame or lighter (you want the heat, not the flame to touch the tubing).

7.    Insert the cable through the back of the hotpod enclosure’s cable grip. Slip the green wire’s ring terminal over the internal grounding stud and thread on the acorn style locking nut over the stud to secure. Note that the thin nut holding the grounding screw to the enclosure should not be removed. The ring terminal gets sandwiched between this nut and the locking acorn nut. The best tool for tightening the lock-nut is a small ratchet and socket. A solid ground connection is the first step to ensuring safety during operation. Not NOT take shortcuts here.

8.    Remove the screws on the back of the heating element, insert them through the ring terminals on the Black and White wires and screw them into the heating element again. Note that the wires are now facing sideways which would risk contact with the side of the enclosure. Gently bend the ring terminals so that the wires are facing more towards you. Do not over bend or it can damage the terminal. Also avoid damaging the shrink wrap.

9.    The cord grip on the enclosures should still be loose around the cable. Slide the enclosure down the cable so less of the cable is inside the enclosure. Rotate the enclosure counterclockwise one full revolution, then screw it clockwise onto the lid that is attached to your vessel already. The counterclockwise rotation ensures that the ground wire is not overly twisted in its final rotational position. When you are satisfied that the wires are not overly twisted, tighten up on the cord grip locking nut until it grips the cable well. Be sure the internal rubber bushing is gripping onto the outer jacket of the cable. If not, loosen and insert the cable a little further.

10.    Brewhardware recommendeds the use of a simple electrical test set (on resistance or ohm setting) on the other end of your cable to verify proper connection. You should read an open or infinite resistance between the green ground wire and the black or white wires. You should read between 5-15 ohms between the black and white wires (matching the resistance of the element itself).

WARNINGS: Use of appropriate element type, wiring type, building circuitry, and overcurrent/ground fault circuit protection, temperature/heat control, etc falls on the purchaser of this piece of hardware. If there are any doubts regarding these details, the purchaser is strongly urged to consult with professionals qualified to advise and/or provide installation services of the same.
Install notes for EWL/EWL3:

Remove the stock gasket from the heating element flange. Wrap the threads with several layers of teflon tape. Insert the threads through the hole in the enclosure first, then through a 1.25" hole in your vessel (please ensure the hole is not sharp on the inside of your vessel). With the element in place, roll the red silicone o-ring down the threads to the vessel wall and thread the 1" NPS lock-nut onto the element with the notched side of the nut facing the o-ring. Continue turning the nut until it is about to contact the o-ring, but stop with one of the lock-nut hex "points" facing straight up. Now hold the lock-nut still while turning the element by its hex until everything is tight. If you get everything tight and still have a drip, it is most likely due to not using enough wraps of teflon tape under the nut. Take it apart and try again.
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